Summary: Longines revives its high-frequency legacy with the Ultra-Chron Classic – a sleek, retro-inspired timepiece available in 37mm and 40mm. Featuring the 5 Hz Calibre L836.3, Timelab certification, and refined 1960s styling, this model bridges vintage design with modern-day precision in quietly confident style.
Estimated read time: 5 minutes
The new Longines Ultra-Chron Classic watches, available in 37 mm and 40mm sizes, are directly inspired by the Ultra-Chron Diver, which was launched in the 1960s. Each model boasts 5 Hz accuracy and is fully Timelab certified.
Ever heard of the Calibre 360? How about the Ultra-Chron? These names are synonymous with watchmaking precision and the ultimate King of Elegance – Longines. While the Saint-Imier brand has spent many years perfecting the classic wristwatch, it also knows a thing or two about accurate dive watches.
In the 1910s, Longines became a key contributor to the high-frequency movement revolution, developing a timekeeping device that could measure 1/10th of a second before introducing the legendary Calibre 360 in 1959 – the first wrist-worn movement capable of beating at a rate of 36,000 vibrations per hour.
Just nine years later, Longines released the Ultra-Chron-Diver watch, featuring one of its high-frequency movements, and the rest, as they say, is history. Well, not quite, because Longines is still writing the book of history with its latest release in the Longines Heritage Collection, the 37 and 40mm Ultra-Chron Classic watch. The technically complex engine sitting within these watches celebrates the watchmaker’s role in the high-beat race that once involved collector-grade watch brands like Seiko, Zenith and Girard-Perregaux. The models follow along the same lines as the 2022 Ultra-Chron releases, which were inspired by the 1968 Diver that superseded the Ultra-Chron ref. 7827 of 1967. They feature striking silver dials that sit under domed sapphire glass, picking up the light with their shimmering sunray-effect surfaces.
What is a High Beat Movement and Why Should You Care?
Here’s the nerdy bit. Say you were comparing a standard mechanism watch movement side by side with a high-frequency mechanical movement. Both may look similar in appearance, but the clue as to why the high-frequency movement is superior is in its name.
While a standard movement beats at around 21,600 or 28,800 vibrations per hour, a high-frequency watch developed by Longines beats at around 36,000 vibrations per hour. This translates to around 10 ticks per second, far faster than a standard engine. What this does is give the second hand a sweeping, gliding motion across the dial. Should that movement be subjected to impact or shock, this precision engine is more likely to recover better and with greater stability.
As the years have passed since Longines introduced its first high-frequency movement, the brand has continued to incorporate modern materials and further enhance performance by adding components such as the anti-magnetic silicone balance spring. The movement has also undergone rigorous chronometer certification.
The Key Features of the New Longines Ultra-Chron Classic Watches
Before we dive into the detailed features of the new Longines Ultra-Chron Classic watch, let’s break things down into the model’s headline features, including its sizing, materials and dial design.
The new watches are available in two sizes: a more compact 37mm model, reminiscent of watches of yesteryear, and a 40mm option that strikes a sweet spot. Whether you opt for the smaller or larger size, both steel cases measure 10.5mm in thickness. This thickness gives the watch enough presence to be noticed, but its slimness allows it to slip under a cuff when needed.
The real magic of the Ultra-Chron Classic watch, however, lies at the heart of the steel case. A 5 Hz frequency movement, capable of providing a 52-hour power reserve, is certified as an “ultra-chronometer” by Timelab Geneva. This body certifies watches based on their real-world performance, as opposed to just laboratory conditions.
The Case: A Slice of the 60s
To do the original Ultra-Chron justice, Longines has had to dig deep into its archives to pull out this special 1967 blueprint. The key was to bridge the gap between a watch that would still look great with classic attire, yet not be outdated when paired with a MacBook.
The 37 mm and 40mm models are crafted from stainless steel and offer something for everyone: those who want a little more real estate on the wrist, and those looking for something more manageable and true to the original 1960s design. As with all Longines watches, these pieces possess a satisfying density, with polishes applied where they matter and brushing in all the places that count. Carrying the Ultra-Chron emblem is the back of the engraved case, which conceals the working mechanism behind its surface.
Meanwhile, a water resistance of 50 meters is ample for a daily dress watch. A domed, anti-glare sapphire crystal glass front gives the silvery dial a nostalgic warmth, but this time, without the scratches.
Dial Details: Lume-Free & Crosshair
The silvery sunray dial of the new Longines Ultra-Chron Classic watch is characterised by a beautiful crosshair design that slices through the centre of the display, evoking the precision of 1960s instruments. The hour markers are applied and faceted, catching the light just enough to warrant a second admiring glance. The hands, however, are polished and lacquer-filled for a tasteful contrast.
The second hand glides gracefully without the slightest jerk, courtesy of that high-frequency movement inside. Of course, there is no need for lume in this elegant wristwatch. The Ultra-Chron is classic enough for plenty of daytime wear and quietly sophisticated by night. The final finishing touch on the dial is the trapezoid date, positioned at 3 o’clock, enhanced for legibility with crisp black numerals.
The Movement – More Beats, Better Precision
The new Longines Ultra-Chron Classic watches are powered by the high-frequency Calibre L836.3, which operates at a staggering rate of 36,000 beats per second and provides a 52-hour power reserve. This throwback is both a mechanical marvel and a technical flex for the manufacturer, providing a smoother operation and anti-magnetism thanks to a silicone balance spring. The movement is fully assembled in Geneva and has passed the standards outlined by TIMELAB, having undergone 15 days of testing.
The Strap: A Watch Like This Deserves Options
Longines offers both a bracelet and a leather strap version of the new Ultra-Chron Classic. The former is a multi-link affair, with brushed extremities and polished middle links. A micro-adjustable folding clasp allows you to fine-tune the fit of this bracelet against your wrist, thanks to expert engineering and a solid, high-quality feel to its build. For a more classic look, the 37 and 40mm models are also available with a black alligator leather strap and a conventional steel buckle, engraved with the Longines logo.
Who Wears the Longines Ultra-Chron Classic?
You do. If you prioritise the rhythm of history, quite literally, and you know your El Primero movement from your Hi-Beat 36000, the new Ultra-Chron Classic is for you. In that same vein, if you appreciate specs and you like a little bit more technical finesse in your chosen wristwear, there is room for this watch in your collection.
This new Longines watch is not intended for those who want the world to notice them, but rather for the collector who notices everyone else’s watch and nods approvingly when they spot a kindred spirit. Jazz guitarists, vintage car enthusiasts – anyone who smiles at the thought of high frequency and heritage, fused together, will resonate with Longines’ message behind this timeless watch.
The Longines Ultra-Chron Classic Still Feel Relevant
Longines could easily have marketed this new dress watch as a reinvention of the 1960s original. But this watch has its own identity and feels remarkably relevant for a reinterpretation. It bridges the gap between then and now perfectly, bringing the mechanical bravado of the 1960s into modern focus. While the smaller of the two, the 37mm model, sings to those with more classic tastes, the 40mm model appeals to the modern wrist. Both feel right in their own way.
This simple time and date crosshair number is never going to be the flashiest number at the party, but that’s precisely what makes it so enduring and easy to love. It has the charisma to out-charm anything, and as technical complexity, that is all about enjoying what very few understand – the quiet defiance of physics.
If you’d like to own one of the new Longines Ultra-Chron Classic and Longines Heritage watches, you can call our sales team here at Banks Lyon on 01524 381 020 or contact us for more information.